Call for PhD Candidates for 2016
SMDTex – Selected Research Projects for 2016 - Summary :
Project SMDTex-2016-1
Title : Supercritical CO2technology in resource effective textile production of functional textiles. Involved Partners : University of Borås, Politecnico di Torino, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 1
Project SMDTex-2016-2
Title : Development of a local resource-based sustainable textile and clothing production organizational model Involved Partners : University of Boras, ENSAIT, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 2
Project SMDTex-2016-3
Title : Exploitation of fashion big data for developing customized garments and predicting evolution of fashion markets Involved Partners : ENSAIT, University of Boras, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 3
Project SMDTEX-2016-41
Title : Surface functionalization of medical textiles by layer-by-layer finishing process and microencapsulation technique Involved Partners : Politecnico di Torino, ENSAIT, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 4
Project SMDTex-2016-42
Title : Surface processes to make bionic luminescent textiles using bio-based multifunctional products Involved Partners : ENSAIT, University of Boras, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 4
Project SMDTex-2016-43
Title : Protective garment for pregnant women against non-ionizing radiation using textile electromagnetic-shield, from electro-conductive hybrid yarns. Involved Partners : ENSAIT, Technical University of Iasi, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 4
Project SMDTex-2016-6
Title : 3D design process of clothing for women applied in corsetry and ballistic protection using 3D warp interlock fabrics Involved Partners : ENSAIT, Technical University of Iasi, Soochow University Concerned Theme : 6
SMDTex – proposed Research Project for 2016 - details :
Project SMDTex-2016-1 Project SMDTex-2016-1 : Supercritical CO2technology in resource effective textile production of functional textiles
Concerned Theme: 1
Description : The research in this project will focus on sustainable development of functional and smart textile materials using supercritical CO2. Supercritical CO2 textile dyeing and functionalization is a water free technology with significant savings in energy, chemicals and waste water while producing high quality products thereby creating new business opportunities. The PhD project will focus on functionalisation (antimicrobial, medical/care, and flame retardant) of woven and knitted synthetic textiles in supercritical CO2.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: University of Borås
In the 1st research mobility period, focus will be on the selection of functionalities and lab-scale functionalisation of textile materials using ScCO2 as well as surface characterisation (streaming potential, contact angle)
March 2018 – August 2019: Politecnico di Torino
The focus will be on the subsequent characterizations of the functionalized textiles such as wettability of textiles (Moisture Management Tester, Tensiometer Kruss 100), investigating the release kinetics of active principles from textiles (Franz cell device, HPLC) and investigating the skin physiology after the contact with a functionalized fabric (Cutometer).
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
The 3rd research mobility period will focus on further characterisation of structure and performance of treated textiles.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Vincent Nierstrasz (Borås, Sweden) is professor in Textile Materials Engineering at the School of Textiles at the University of Boras since 2011. He supervised/co-supervised over 10 PhD-students. He was previously appointed at Ghent University in Belgium and University of Twente in the Netherlands. He has specific competence in surface modification and surface functionalization of textile materials. He was involved in several European (FP5, FP6 and FP7), nationally and industrially funded projects.
Ada Ferri (Politecnico di Torino) associate professor at the Applied Science and Technology Department of Politecnico di Torino. She has more than ten-year experience in textile technology research and innovation, with scientific interests in textile functionalization, thermo-physiological comfort of apparel and sustainable dyeing processes. She participated in the management of several national and European projects and collaborates with national and international textile firms in developing industrial research and innovation projects. Since 2010, she holds the chair of High performance textile applications and Thermodynamics for Materials Science at the MSc in Materials Science in Torino.
Guoqiang Chen (Soochow, China) is a professor in Textile Dyeing and Finishing at the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering at Soochow University. He is specialized in textile dyeing and finishing technology. In the last 5 years and supervised 10 PhD students. In functional modification of textiles and eco-process of dyeing and finishing field, he leaded many nationally and industrially funded research projects. And some technology had been applied in industry successfully.
Guan Jinping (Soochow, China) is associate professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. Her research interest is in functional modification of textiles especially flame retardant finishing. She supervised 5 master students and co-supervised over 5 PhD students. She leaded a nationally funded project and several industrial projects in functional modification of silk fabrics.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : MSc typically in textile engineering, polymer, chemistry.
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) :
University of Borås
Information seeking for PhD students 2.5 ECTS Theory of science 7.5 ECTS Academic writing 5 ECTS Research ethics 2.5 ECTS Applied statistical design of experiments 7.5 ECTS Quantitative methods 7.5 ECTS
POLITO
High performance fibres for composite, sportswear and protection 6 ECTS Polymers and radiation 4 ECTS Short Course on Enterpreneurship 1 ECTS Writing scientific papers in Englisg 3 ECTS
SOOCHOW - 17,5 ECTS (eq.)
Advanced textile materials (20h)3.5 (eq.) Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (20h) 3.5 (eq.) Advance clothing manufacture system (20h) 3.5 (eq.) Colour measurement and control for textile (20h) 3.5 (eq.) Eco-dyeing and finishing technology (20h) 3.5 (eq.)
Project SMDTex-2016-2 Project SMDTex-2016-2 : Development of a local resource-based sustainable textile and clothing production organizational model
Concerned Theme: 2
Description : Today manufactured textile and clothing is mainly characterized largely by global sourcing. In Western countries, the trend in the clothing companies is to build their brand name through its own design and marketing, but rarely have any own production. Instead they outsource the production to independent subcontractors, and are therefore sometimes called “manufacturers without factories”. At the same time, in textile producing nations, industrial pollutions from textile factories have caused serious impacts to environment. In this context, sustainable strategies in supply chain management calls for more local (relatively to consumers) sourcing and manufacturing in order to reduce environmental impact from transport and production. To this shall the trend with shifting customer decoupling point upstream in the supply chain. In all, these trends calls for development of new production organizational model(s) and approaches in research within textile supply chains, by addressing local sourcing and manufacturing. Understanding the critical success factors of such model(s) is vital to render “new” competitive advantage. Furthermore, in order to mitigate global pollution created by industries, a series of regulations and standards on carbon emissions, etc. have been issued, and are crucial in every link of the textile and clothing industries. In this research, the carbon emissions and other environmental outcomes in the new production organizational model(s) are further analyzed, in order to provide for environmental sustainability.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: University of Borås
Specific tasks & deliverables will include: (i) study of local sourcing & manufacturing businesses and model(s), (ii) conceptualization of the new production organizational model(s), (ii) identifying the critical success factors, aspects, effects etc. underpinning the new model, (iii) parameterizing these key elements.
March 2018 – August 2019: ENSAIT
Specific tasks will include: (i) modelling, simulation and optimization of the new production organizational model(s) for performance measurement, (a) operationally, (b) economically, and © environmentally, to develop various scenarios.
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
Specific tasks will include: (i) training and testing the model using real data and comparison with base scenarios generated, (ii) quantitative calculations to optimize the production processes to reduce the carbon emission and other key environmental factors.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Dr. Daniel Ekwall is an Associate Professor at University of Borås. He is specialized in logistics management where he focuses on logistics security, supply chain management and logistics service innovation.
Dr. Daniel Hjelmgren is a lecturer at University of Borås. He is specialized in marketing. His research area includes trade and resource recovery, with a focus on the textile industry.
Xianyi Zeng (is a Professor in computer modelling and data analysis at ENSAIT. He is leading a research group specialised in Human-Centred Design. His current research interests include process and product modelling and simulation, human perception characterisation, textile comfort and decision support systems for textile supply chain. He is author or co-author of over 70 papers published in SCI journals and over 100 papers presented at international conferences. He is editor of two scientific collections, published by Springer, and associate editors of two international journals. Prof.Zeng has supervised 20 doctorate students, and more than 30 Master students. He has acted as leader of many research projects funded by European Commission, French government and industrial companies.
Dr.Sebastien Thomassey (ENSAIT, France) PhD and Associate Professor in ENSAIT. He is specialised in textile supply chain management and mass customisation for textiles and participated in Camille 3D Senso ‘Creation of a customised virtual fitting rooms for garments”, a research project funded by the French national FUI Program.
Prof. Yan Chen is currently a Professor with Soochow University. Her research interests include sensory evaluation of textile, production management, and sustainable textile supply chain. She received the Ph.D. degree in Textile Engineering from the Soochow University, China, in 2002. From 1987 to 1988, she was a Visiting Fellow at the University of Leeds, UK. She was an Advanced Visiting Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK, in 2003.
Dr. Lichuan Wang has been a Postdoctoral Fellow and Lecturer with Soochow University, where he researched computerized design of industrial fashion products and sustainable apparel engineering. He received the Ph.D. degree in automation and industrial information engineering from the University of Lille 1, Villeneuve- d’Ascq, France, in 2012.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : Master’s degree in Industrial Engineering or Industrial Economics or Textile Engineering and Management.
Proposed teaching program :
Project SMDTex-2016-3 Project SMDTex-2016-3 : Exploitation of fashion big data for developing customized garments and predicting evolution of fashion markets
Concerned Theme: 3
Description : The term big data has many years been used as a business buzz-word. Many authors have been pointing out potential benefits with using big data related to cloud computing platform as a new tool to understand everything from traffic jams to customer choices.
The concept of big data is extremely important for fashion sectors (garments, shoes, …) for understanding evolutionary fashion markets and consumer’s behaviors, emotions and preferences, and characterizing relations between functional and perceived qualities of fashion products (fashion perception space) and their manufacturing parameters at all concerned micro-processes (technical space). Based on the information extracted from fashion big data, brand companies can effectively realize a fully digital garment supply chain by connecting technical parameters (fibers, spinning, weaving, dyeing, garment making, …) to a desired fashion requirement and then deeply change the classical organizational model of textile production and transaction.
Three tasks will be proposed in this project. First, we need to study how digital fashion related to big data and cloud computing change the business model of the current international textile supply chain and propose a new organizational model of an enterprise to be adapted to this impact. The new model will permit to maximize the benefits of the enterprise and minimize the environmental and social impacts. Second, we need to further develop the virtual reality-based digital garment co-design platform, already widely studied, by integrating a fashion design knowledge base extracted from fashion big data. The interaction between virtual garments, virtual human models and the real try-on based knowledge will permit to further develop the concept of virtual try-on by taking into account of wearer’s comfort feeling and well-being. Third, we need to reconsider the relations of producer/designer/shopper/consumer in the environment of digital fashion and propose new service modules adapted to fashion big data, including product tracking and recycling. In this context, a CRM (Customer Relationship Management) system will be developed, enabling to help the textile producers to realize more precise fashion marketing and decrease the waste which is generated by excessive production. The fashion big data-based relationship will form a complete customization service process of fashion personalized design for mass customers.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: ENSAIT
We will integrate fashion big data (human body shape, fashion design knowledge) into the digital garment co-design platform, already developed. In this stage, a new non-contact measurement method will be investigated in order to match the individual customer’s body dimensions, with which a standardized 3D morphotype can be developed. The general idea of the method is based on the comparison between 2 2D images of the individual customer and other images projected from the 3D morphotypes of the database of a target population. The 3D morphotypes sample database will be established firstly with 3D clustering method. Different general 2D shape descriptors are analyzed and selected to be adapted to the shape analysis of human body. The selected 2D shape descriptors will be applied both in giving the signature of the 2D shape data obtained from Kinect camera (front and side views of the customer) as well as the 3D morphotypes sample database. Then the representative body sample can be selected from the 3D morphotypes sample database for the new coming customer. All the body shape in 3D morphotypes sample database will be studied by experienced fashion designers and pattern makers to get the ideal garment fitting plans in terms of desired fashion effects and comfort requirements. When the new customer comes, the garment fitting plan of the corresponding representative sample will be picked up from the 3D morphotypes sample database to give the most adapted recommendation to the final design solution.
March 2018 – August 2019: University of Borås
In Borås we will investigate and map consumer behavior in interactions with the digital garment co-design platform, and we will analyse the production aspects of mass customization. The body of consumer behavior knowledge serves as the theoretical framework for the study, and this study should contribute to the development of the models for consumer behavior and retail innovations. The investigation starts with a pre-study in which we use traditional consumer studies (surveys and focus groups) to get a general knowledge. Based on the result from the pre-study, we do experiments in consumer behavior at the Swedish institute for innovative retail (SIIR) in which test persons interact with the platform. The experiments aim for knowledge on the behavior of different types of consumers, of behaviour in various buying situations, and behavior in relation to different garments. When analysing the results, key measurements are identified and the data is quantified accordingly and put into the database. Simultanously, the production process for each scenario are analysed, key measurements are identified and data is quantified and compiled in the same database.
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
Specific tasks in the 3nd research mobility at Soochow will include: (1) Realization and validation of the CRM system for the proposed personalized design service process. (2) Study on the feasibility of the proposed mass customization design model from concept to manufacturing.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Xianyi Zeng is a Professor in computer modelling and data analysis at ENSAIT. He is leading a research group specialised in Human-Centred Design. His current research interests include process and product modelling and simulation, human perception characterisation, textile comfort and decision support systems for textile supply chain. He is author or co-author of over 90 papers published in SCI journals and over 100 papers presented at international conferences. He is editor of two scientific collections, published by Springer, and associate editors of two international journals. Prof.Zeng has supervised 20 doctorate students, and more than 30 Master students. He has acted as leader of many research projects funded by European Commission, French government and industrial companies.
Pascal Bruniaux is a Professor in 3D object modelling and simulation at ENSAIT. His research interests include 3D modeling of human body and garments, design of man/garment interface and textile comfort. The involved projects include mass customization and 3D virtual garment fitting and design process.
Malin Sundström PhD in Business Administration, is an Associate professor and Director of SIIR (Swedish Institute for Innovative Retailing) of University of Borås. As an expert in retailing and marking, she conducted a number of national research projects and programs in this filed and obtained four academic awards. She published more than 40 scientific books, journal papers and scientific reports.
Joel Pettersson PhD in Textile Engineering, is an Assistant professor of University of Borås. He is specialized in knitting technology and textile supply chain management with a focus on knitwear. His research interests include knitted fabric technology, supply chain management, mass customization and fashion logistics.
Prof. Yan Chen is currently a Professor with Soochow University. Her research interests include sensory evaluation of textile, production management, and sustainable textile supply chain. She received the Ph.D. degree in Textile Engineering from the Soochow University, China, in 2002. From 1987 to 1988, she was a Visiting Fellow at the University of Leeds, UK. She was an Advanced Visiting Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK, in 2003.
Dr. Lichuan Wang has been a Postdoctoral Fellow and Lecturer with Soochow University, where he researched computerized design of industrial fashion products and sustainable apparel engineering. He received the Ph.D. degree in automation and industrial information engineering from the University of Lille 1, Villeneuve- d’Ascq, France, in 2012.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : MSc typically in textile engineering, information engineering, fashion product development, fashion marketing.
Proposed teaching program :
Project SMDTex-2016-41 Project SMDTex-2016-41 : Surface functionalization of medical textiles by layer-by-layer finishing process and microencapsulation technique
Concerned Theme: 4
Description : Skin diseases, such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis, affect quality of life and often require long treatment period. The aim of the project is to develop medical textiles for the complementary therapy of skin diseases. The layer-by-layer method and the microencapsulation technique will be compared in their ability to control the release of selected active principles. The candidate will work on the development of two functionalization processes. Firstly, the aims of the study are to define the structure, the optimal number and the composition of the layers in case of the layer-by-layer technique. Secondly, layer by layer microencapsulation will be studied before functionalizing the outer shell to envisage the deposition onto textile substrates by conventional finishing processes. The release kinetics from the functionalized fabrics will be estimated in order to compare layer by layer finishing process to layer by layer microencapsulation formulation. The candidate will work on the design of innovative medical textile-based devices, such as knee and elbow pads, as skin diseases often takes place at the articulation level.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: POLITO
Development of the layer-by-layer formulations and characterization of the functionalized fabrics
March 2018 – August 2019: ENSAIT
Development of the microencapsulation technique, characterization of the functionalized fabrics and comparison between layer-by-layer and microencapsulation techniques.
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
Design of medical device for the treatment of psoriasis. Design different style of treatment items. Select different textile substrate like silk, PLA, cotton, PET etc…
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Giulio Malucelli (POLITO) got his Master degree in Chemical Engineering at Politecnico di Torino in 1992. In 1996 he obtained the PhD degree in Chemistry. In 1995 he gained the position of Assistant Professor at Politecnico di Torino at the Department of Applied Science and Technology. From 2003 he is Associate Professor in Materials Science and Technology at the Department of Applied Science and Technology of Politecnico di Torino. He co-authored more than 175 peer-reviewed papers, 8 book chapters and several Communications to National and International Congresses. His main research interest include the synthesis of new reactive oligomers and their photopolymerization, the modification of polymers with polar or fluorinated structures. At present he is involved in the synthesis and characterization of nanocomposite structures, namely hybrid organic-inorganic coatings (ceramers) and polymeric nanocomposites containing phyllosilicates, alumina, graphene and graphene-like fillers. He is also investigating the fire retardancy of plastic substrates and textiles, achieved by means of surface modifications based on the formation of sol-gel derived oxidic phases or layer-by-layer assemblies.
Francesca Bosco (POLITO) got her Master Degree in Biological Science in 1987. She received her Ph.D. in Biology and biotechnology of fungi in 1995. She is Assistant Professor at the Department of Applied Science and Technology of Politecnico di Torino, Italy. She has co-authored more than 30 peer-reviewed papers, 2 book chapters and several Communications to National and International Congresses. Her main research interests concern the production of microorganisms and biomolecules of industrial interest, valorisation processes of wastes and industrial by-products in the production of biomolecules. Teaching experiences: 2001- 2008 “Development of biotechnological processes”, Faculty of Science, University of Torino, 2003- 2011 “Microbiology”, 2004-present “Biotechnological Product and processes”, 2012-present “Fundamentals of molecular biology and microbiology”, Politecnico of Torino.
Ada Ferri (POLITO) associate professor at the Applied Science and Technology Department of Politecnico di Torino. She has more than ten-year experience in textile technology research and innovation, with scientific interests in textile functionalization, thermo-physiological comfort of apparel and sustainable dyeing processes.
She participated in several national and European projects and collaborates with national and international textile firms in developing industrial research and innovation projects. Since 2010, she holds the chair of High performance textile applications and Thermodynamics for Materials Science at the MSc in Materials Science in Torino.
Fabien Salaün (ENSAIT-GEMTEX), received a MSc in Organic and Macromolecular Chemistry in 2001 and a PhD in Macromolecular Chemistry in 2004. He is Associate Professor in the Chemistry and Technical Textile Departments. His research interests include in thermal comfort textile, microencapsulation processes and functional coating for textile applications. He is coauthor of more than 30 papers in international refereed scientific journals and of 6 book chapters. He teaches polymer science at the MSc in ENSAIT
Stéphane Giraud (ENSAIT-GEMTEX), received a Textile MSc degree in ENSAIT in 1999 and a PhD-degree in Macromolecular and Organic Chemistry from the ‘Université des Sciences et Technologies de Lille’, in 2002. Since 2003, he worked as associate professor in the ENSAIT Textile Engineering Institute Roubaix. His research interest include multifunctional textiles (fire resistance properties, drug release, stab resistance) by various processes (knitting, coating, padding, spinning, microencapsulation). He has participated in several national and European projects, for some he was scientific manager. He supervised more 20 master students and co-supervised over 6 PhD students.
Guoqiang Chen (Soochow, China) is a professor in Textile Dyeing and Finishing at the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering at Soochow University. He is specialized in textile dyeing and finishing technology. In the last 5 years and supervised 10 PhD students. In functional modification of textiles and eco-process of dyeing and finishing field, he leaded many nationally and industrially funded research projects. And some technology had been applied in industry successfully.
Guan Jinping (Soochow, China) is associate professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. Her research interest is in functional modification of textiles especially flame retardant finishing. She supervised 5 master students and co-supervised over 5 PhD students. She leaded a nationally funded project and several industrial projects in functional modification of silk fabrics.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : MSc typically in polymer engineering, physical chemistry or rheology.
Proposed teaching program :
POLITECNICO di Torino:
High performance fibres for composites, sportswear and protection 6 ECTS Short course on entrepreneurship 1 ECTS Writing scientific papers in English 2 ECTS Fondamenti di chimica organica, biologia molecolare e microbiologia 12 ECTS
ENSAIT :
French Culture 2 ECTS Characterization of advanced materials 2.5 ECTS Innovation in technical textiles 4.0 ECTS Production & performances of technical textiles 3.5 ECTS Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Soochow :
Advanced textile materials (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Advance clothing manufacture system (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Colour measurement and control for textile (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Eco-dyeing and finishing technology (20h) – 3.5 (eq.)
Project SMDTex-2016-42 Project SMDTex-2016-42 : Surface processes to make bionic luminescent textiles using bio-based multifunctional products
Concerned Theme: 4
Description : Nature has designed a few bio-based molecules which are responsible for bioluminescence in some living species. The challenge will be to develop a luminescent textile using some of these bio-based compounds (colorants, enzymes, or a combination of several bio-based molecules). Different techniques can be used to functionalize textiles with such bio-based molecules, and in this PhD project, the student will have to explore methods and products yielding some eco-efficient luminescent textiles.
Synthetic fibers are hard to functionalize with bio-based finishing, because of their hydrophobic properties. Surface modification using Dopamine is an efficient method to create reactive groups onto hydrophobic surfaces. This was inspired by marine mussels which can attach any surfaces rapidly in an underwater environment. The main adhesive component is 3,4-dihydorxy-phenylalamine(DOPA). In addition to luminescence, textiles modified with these bio-based products can have multi-funtional properties (anti-bacterial, fire-proofing) which will also be explored in this study.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: ENSAIT, France.
Complete literature work on biobased molecules responsible for bioluminescence in living species. Research on the use of dyeing and finishing techniques, including plasma ecotechnology to functionalise textiles using these biobased molecules to produce a luminescent textile. The use of dopamine to improve adhesion of these biobased molecules will also be investigated.
March 2018 – August 2019: University of Borås, Sweden
Surface functionalisation (coating, printing, ink jetting), stability of biological materials during textile processing, surface characterization (surface tension, contact angle streaming potential/zeta-potential).
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
Comparison of bioluminescent compound and commercial luminescent dye by measuring light colorfastness and find its possible application field.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Nemeshwaree Behary-Massika (ENSAIT, France) is associate professor (Dr. HDR) at ENSAIT/GEMTEX (EcoleNationaleSupérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, Roubaix in France) since 2004. She is specialised in surface chemistry and in textile bio-functionalization. She has been involved in several international, European and regional funded projects.
Vincent Nierstrasz Vincent Nierstrasz (Borås, Sweden) is professor in Textile Materials Engineering at the School of Textiles at the University of Boras since 2011. He supervised/co-supervised over 10 PhD-students. He was previously appointed at Ghent University in Belgium and University of Twente in the Netherlands. He has specific competence in surface modification and surface functionalization of textile materials. He was involved in several European (FP5, FP6 and FP7), nationally and industrially funded projects.
Guoqiang Chen (Soochow, China) is a professor in Textile Dyeing and Finishing at the school of Textile and apparel Engineering at Soochow University and is the head of school. He is specialised in textile dyeing and finishing technology. He has published more than 40 papers in key textile journals in the last 5 years and supervised 10 PhD students. In addition, he has conducted one national research project (Eco-finishing) and a number of provincial research projects in the area of advanced textile dyeing and finishing technology.
Guan Jinping (Soochow, China) is associate professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. Her research interest is in functional modification of textiles especially flame retardant finishing. She has published more than 30 papers in dye textile journals.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : MSc typically in textile engineering, polymer, chemistry.
Proposed teaching program :
ENSAIT:
French Culture 2 ECTS Characterization of advanced materials 2.5 ECTS Innovation in technical textiles 4 ECTS Production & performances of technical textiles 3.5 ECTS Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) (new lecture in 2014)
University of Borås:
Information seeking for PhD students 2.5 ECTS Theory of science 7.5 ECTS Academic writing 5 ECTS Research ethics 2.5 ECTS Applied statistical design of experiments 7.5 ECTS Quantitative methods 7.5 ECTS
Soochow :
Advanced textile materials (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Advance clothing manufacture system (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Colour measurement and control for textile (20h) – 3.5 (eq.) Eco-dyeing and finishing technology (20h) – 3.5 (eq.)
Project SMDTex-2016-43 Project SMDTex-2016-43 : Protective garment for pregnant women against non-ionizing radiation using textile electromagnetic-shield, from electro-conductive hybrid yarns.
Concerned Theme: 4
Description : The continuous technological developments of the electronic devices and the communication systems generate various electromagnetic fields, with different rate of injuries for human being, such as headache, fatigue, leukemia, cancer, etc. Thus, studies in different sectors have been performed to reduce these effects. In textile sector, some researchers have begun to develop fabrics having electromagnetic shielding properties. The main method of shielding consists to use a material which can generate and transport free charges. This explains why the first investigated solutions are based on the introduction of stiff metallic yarns in textile fabrics. However, these yarns show some disadvantages for textile processes (knitting or weaving) such as their breakability and very poor flexibility. Further, the metallic yarns have a color and hand properties that are sometimes undesirable for common textile use. A second approach based on coating of conductive polymers (polyaniline, polypyrrole, etc.) on the surface of individually fibers or directly on fabrics has been investigated. Nevertheless, the durability of this type of functionalization and the efficiency of electromagnetic shield can consequently decrease due to a potential peeling of the treatment during processes or use. To overcome the disadvantages of the coating, it seems possible to introduce conductive particles in the polymer during the extrusion-spinning process. The research program targets the development of electromagnetic-shield textiles made from polymeric filaments (including polymers derived from renewable resources) filled with electrically conductive particles. To reach this objective, the first step will consist to develop hybrid yarns filled with appropriated particles. In second step this functionalized multifilaments will be introduced in textile structures (woven or knitted structures) for garments elements. But, the design of these advanced textiles has to be optimized to obtain the best protection against electromagnetic fields and be adapted to the morphology of the pregnant women. For that, a 3D numerical design concept will be defined to optimize the contact surface between the garment and the body leading to an optimization of the expected protective effect. From a technological point of view, it will be possible to define different zones of protection. A gradient of protection across the chest or elsewhere could also be envisaged which would prevent cuts in protection. This concept will have to take into account the confort of the final product for the wearer. Also, the durability and the sensorial properties of this new material will be also evaluated.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: ENSAIT
DDevelopment of hybrid yarns filled with appropriated particles. Define a 3D numerical design concept for garment which optimizes the contact surface between the garment and the body leading to an optimization of the expected protective effect.
March 2018 – August 2019: Technical University of Iasi
Development of electromagnetic-shield textiles made from polymeric filaments (including polymers derived from renewable resources) filled with electrically conductive particles. Validation of protection by specific tests. Measurement of the performances of textile materials and validation of protection by specific tests.
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
Apply the research results obtained at ENSAIT and Iasi on Chinese textile and apparel industries. For that, it will be realized real garments by using the 3D numerical design concept and the protective textile sample developed at ENSAIT and Iasi. These garments will be tried-on by pregnant women in the goal to verify the well-being, the comfort and the protection.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Christine Campagne (ENSAIT-GEMTEX) received the Ph. D. degree in Macromolecular and Organic Chemistry from the “Université des Sciences et Technologies de Lille”, France, in 2001. Since 2010, she worked as Professor in the ENSAIT Textile Engineering Institute, Roubaix, France. Her research interest includes physico-chemical characterization of polymer surfaces, surface treatment (particularly atmospheric plasma treatment). Since 2004, her research areas cover also the processing of synthetic advanced materials by spinning.
Pascal Bruniaux (ENSAIT-GEMTEX) Professor in 3D object modelling and simulation at ENSAIT. His research interests include 3D modeling of human body and garments, design of man/garment interface and textile comfort. The involved projects include mass customization and 3D virtual garment fitting and design process.
Carmen Loghin (IASI, Romania) is professor in Clothing Technology and Equipments, Production Data Management and CAD & IT for Clothing Industry at the Faculty of Textiles, Leather & Industrial Management since 2012 and and PhD supervisor. She is author, co-author or editor of 11 books, over 90 scientific papers. She has managed some national projects, over 25 industrial projects focused on clothing production optimization. The main research themes are: protective equipments for hostile environments, functional design of clothing, shielding, comfort science.
Irina Cristian (IASI, Romania) is associate professor in the Department of Engineering and Design of Textile Products at the Faculty of Textile-Leather and Industrial Management of TUIASI. She obtained her PhD in Industrial Engineering from the Technical University of Iasi, Romania in 2004. Her research interests include Functional design of woven fabrics (2D and 3D), Fibre reinforced composites and Intelligent textiles. She has authored more than 92 papers and articles and 12 books (author and chapters in books) printed in national or international publishing companies. She has been involved as researcher in international grants (with LEONARDO DA VINCI, ARCUS, FP6) and 25 national research grants.
Stéphane Giraud (ENSAIT-GEMTEX), received a Textile MSc degree in ENSAIT in 1999 and a PhD-degree in Macromolecular and Organic Chemistry from the ‘Université des Sciences et Technologies de Lille’, in 2002. Since 2003, he worked as associate professor in the ENSAIT Textile Engineering Institute Roubaix. His research interest include multifunctional textiles (fire resistance properties, drug release, stab resistance) by various processes (knitting, coating, padding, spinning, microencapsulation). He has participated in several national and European projects, for some he was scientific manager. He supervised more 20 master students and co-supervised over 6 PhD students.
Yan Chen (SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY, CHINA) is currently a Professor with Soochow University. Her research interests include sensory evaluation of textile, production management, and sustainable textile supply chain. She received the Ph.D. degree in Textile Engineering from the Soochow University, China, in 2002. From 1987 to 1988, she worked as a Visiting Fellow at the University of Leeds, UK. She was an Advanced Visiting Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK, in 2003.
Lichuan Wang (SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY, CHINA) has been a Postdoctoral Fellow and Lecturer with Soochow University, where he researched computerized design of industrial fashion products and sustainable apparel engineering. He received the Ph.D. degree in automation and industrial information engineering from the University of Lille 1, Villeneuve-d’Ascq, France, in 2012.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : MSc in Textile Engineering, Chemical Engineering, Materials Science, Mechanical Engineering, Polymers’ properties, Functionalization of textile materials, Textile materials and processes, Sensorial evaluation.
Proposed teaching program :
Advanced textile materials, Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing, Economic intelligence and innovation dynamics, Comfort and Protection.
Project SMDTex-2016-6 Project SMDTex-2016-6 : 3D design process of clothing for women applied in corsetry and ballistic protection using 3D warp interlock fabrics.
Concerned Theme: 6
Description : The project is to establish of a new clothing design process for the woman for specific applications such as corsetry and ballistic protection. These applications require highly technical new development tools that will be done in a virtual environment to improve well-being, comfort, technical use (the wearing of the breast, protection from impact of a ball), and that the cost of the material in a context of sustainable development. These two sectors have the feature of having very similar needs in the development of adaptive mannequin on which will be molded bra, or the bulletproof vest. For this, it is imperative to find the right chest volumes depending on the different cup sizes. The current popular system of determining bra size is inaccurate so often as to be useless. Add to this the many different styles of bras and the lack of standardization between brands, and one can that see why finding a comfortable, well-fitting bra is more a matter of educated guesswork, trial, and error than of precise measurements. Fitting a bra on a 3D mannequin reduces the guesswork, trial and so the error is reduced. It is more precise and hence has greater scope when bra is conceived. Also, the first step of the project aims at conceiving the bra patterns on the good volume of the breast (manikin of modelling agency) for the size 90B, adjusting this volume for every size, verifying if the 2D patterns of each size from the flattening of the 3D patterns are good (comparison with the 2D traditional pattern grading). By this iterative process and the expertise in the 2D pattern making of corsetry, it will be possible to create a mannequin with variable breast on which the numerical method to design models of bra and to obtain automatically the different sizes is based. The second step of the project is to design on this model the 3D shape of bulletproof vest with its various layers of protection. The advantage of this 3D design will identify and take into account all the areas to be protected at constant protection, to strengthen some areas compared to others, and to avoid the problems of cutting poorly adjusted. Generally, the number of sizes available varies between 3 and 5 for the same type of protection. For the same size of vest, a wearer can more or less fit the morphology of the body by self-gripping tapes. This closure technique leads to two fitting possible cases. The first case is that the closing vest is very tight; protection is so effective on the side or on-efficient because it generally leads to recovery of the protective layers, resulting in an unnecessary excess weight vest. The second case is that the closure is not tight, protection on the side is reduced leading to an unprotected area. So, depending on the morphology of the body, the protection will be more or less effective due to the positioning of the vest and to its proximity to the body. Among other things, the most female soldiers still wear unisex bulletproof vest but with smaller sizes. This is obviously unsuitable due to the morphological differences between women and men. This problem may result in bad protection and an unsuitable comfort by crushing chest. The 3D numerical design can solve these different problems. The third step of the project is to use the 3D warp interlock fabric to make the female bulletproof vest as it can form the required shape of the breast. The 3D warp interlock fabric owns good mouldability which could fit the female breast. In addition, the ballistic impact testing has proved that it also provides no less ballistic performance than other commercially used fabrics. This concept is very interesting for many reasons but it needs to know the 3D numerical model of the bulletproof vest, given at the second step of the project.
Research mobility period planning :
September 2016 – February 2018: ENSAIT
Development of a numerical parametric mannequin with variable breast by using the knowledge of the corsetry profession. Design on this mannequin the 3D shape of bulletproof vest with its various layers of protection zoned. Analyse the means to make the female bulletproof vest with a 3D warp interlock fabric by using the 3D shape of numerical creation method.
March 2018 – August 2019: Technical University of Iasi
Development of a 3D warp interlock fabrics. Realisation real garments by using the 3D shape of the numerical design concept and the 3D warp interlock fabrics. Validation of protection by ballistic tests.
September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.
Verify the well-being, the comfort of the female bulletproof vest produced in Iasi. Validation of the different volumes of the breast in specific environment such as the lingerie/corsetry. Different garments shall be produced to verify the volume, the well-being, the comfort during try-on test by wearer.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Pascal Bruniaux (ENSAIT-GEMTEX) Professor in 3D object modelling and simulation at ENSAIT. His research interests include 3D modeling of human body and garments, design of man/garment interface and textile comfort. The involved projects include mass customization and 3D virtual garment fitting and design process.
François Boussu (ENSAIT-GEMTEX) (ENSAIT, Roubaix) is an associate professor specialized both in the design of woven structures inside composites (2D and 3D weaving) and textile composite protective solutions to low and high speed ballistic impacts. He has conducted the scientific direction of 13 Ph-D thesis and 49 final year projects (Master 2 students). He has written 11 chapters of scientific books, 24 scientific publications in international journals and co-author of 6 patents. He has also participate to 135 oral communications in international conferences.
Carmen Loghin (IASI, Romania) is professor in Clothing Technology and Equipments, Production Data Management and CAD & IT for Clothing Industry at the Faculty of Textiles, Leather & Industrial Management since 2012 and and PhD supervisor. She is author, co-author or editor of 11 books, over 90 scientific papers. She has managed some national projects, over 25 industrial projects focused on clothing production optimization. The main research themes are: protective equipments for hostile environments, functional design of clothing, shielding, comfort science.
Irina Cristian (IASI, Romania) is associate professor in the Department of Engineering and Design of Textile Products at the Faculty of Textile-Leather and Industrial Management of TUIASI. She obtained her PhD in Industrial Engineering from the Technical University of Iasi, Romania in 2004. Her research interests include Functional design of woven fabrics (2D and 3D), Fibre reinforced composites and Intelligent textiles. She has authored more than 92 papers and articles and 12 books (author and chapters in books) printed in national or international publishing companies. She has been involved as researcher in international grants (with LEONARDO DA VINCI, ARCUS, FP6) and 25 national research grants.
Yan Chen (SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY, CHINA) is currently a Professor with Soochow University. Her research interests include sensory evaluation of textile, production management, and sustainable textile supply chain. She received the Ph.D. degree in Textile Engineering from the Soochow University, China, in 2002. From 1987 to 1988, she worked as a Visiting Fellow at the University of Leeds, UK. She was an Advanced Visiting Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK, in 2003.
Lichuan Wang (SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY, CHINA) has been a Postdoctoral Fellow and Lecturer with Soochow University, where he researched computerized design of industrial fashion products and sustainable apparel engineering. He received the Ph.D. degree in automation and industrial information engineering from the University of Lille 1, Villeneuve-d’Ascq, France, in 2012.
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : Garment design and comfort knowledge, garment CAD systems, computer modelling.
Proposed teaching program :
Advanced textile materials, Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing, Comfort and Protection.
22 and 23 October - University of Biella, Italy
22 – 23 October 2014 – University of Boras, Boras, Sweden
The SMDtex team in Boras
28 – 30 October 2012 – ENSAIT, Roubaix, France
The collective photo of all participants
The SMDtex team in Roubaix
Signature for chineese scolarship agreement
The presentations :
| New admissions for Edition 2014 |
|---|
Erasmus Mundus join Doctorate Programm
SMDTex - Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles
The Coordination Committee of the Erasmus Mundus Joint Doctorate Programme “Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles” (SMDTex), declare admitted to this programme for the Edition 2014 (2014 – 2018), starting on 1st September 2014 :
| Name | Subject | Supervisors from |
|---|---|---|
| Ke Ma Tianjin, China | Cluster-based collaborative business model in textile and apparel for resilience | University of Boras ENSAIT Soochow Univ. |
| Shahriar Jahan Hossain Dhaka, Bangladesh | Transparency/Visibility of circular fashion value chain and its resilience | University of Boras Techn. Univ. of Iasi Soochow Univ. |
| Edwin Kamalha Tororo, Uganda | Resource protection – Replacement of Cotton fiber | ENSAIT Politecnico di Torino Soochow Univ. |
| Razieh Hashemi Sanatgar Isfahan, Iran | Novel processes for functional and smart textiles | University of Boras ENSAIT Soochow Univ. |
| Parag S. Bhavsar Mumbai Maharashtra, India | Green hydrolysis of waste wool | Politecnico di Torino Techn. Univ. of Iasi - Soochow Univ. |
| Yan Hong Suzhou, China | Customized garment design system for elderly people or persons with physical disabilities from body scan data | ENSAIT Techn. Univ. of Iasi Soochow Univ. |
Erasmus Mundus join Doctorate Programme SMDTex - Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles
The Coordination Committee of the Erasmus Mundus Joint Doctorate Programme “Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles” (SMDTex), declare admitted to this programme for the Edition 2015 (2015 – 2019), starting on 1st September 2015:
| Name | Project n° | Subject | Supervisors from |
|---|---|---|---|
| Neeraj Kumar Mandlekar from India | SMDTex-2015-1 | Integration of wood waste to develop multifunctional fully biobased textile structures | ENSAIT Politecnico di Torino Soochow University |
| Agrawal Tarun Kumar from India | SMDTex-2015-2 | A Pattern Coding Based Integrated Tag for Textiles and Apparels of Sustainable Value Chains | ENSAIT University of Boras Soochow University |
| Melissa Wagner from Germany | SMDTex-2015-41 | Expectation and perception of consumers for (ethical) fashion brands and impact on the purchase behaviour | Technical University of Iasi ENSAIT Soochow University |
| Jagadish Chandra Roy from Bangladesh | SMDTex-2015-3 | Textiles for controlled release of active principles | ENSAIT Politecnico di Torino Soochow University |
| May Kaoush from Syria | SMDTex-2015-42 | Ecotechnologies for immobilising enzymes on conductive textiles, for sustainable development | ENSAIT University of Boras Soochow University |
| Zamir Ahmed from Pakistan | SMDTex-2015-5 | Quality inspection and evaluation for smart textile fabric surface by skin contact mechanics | University of Boras Technical University of Iasi oochow University |
SMDTex – Selected Research Projects for 2015 - Summary :
Project n° SMDTex-2015-1
Project n° SMDTex-2015-2
Project n° SMDTex-2015-3
Project n° SMDTex-2015-41
Project n° SMDTex-2015-42
Project n° SMDTex-2015-5
SMDTex – proposed Research Project for 2015 - details :
| Project SMDTex-2015-1 |
|---|
Concerned Theme: 1
Description :
The development of textile materials made with renewable resources currently knows a growing interest for various reasons such as environmental issues and the programmed depletion of oil resources. Among the bio-based materials that can be used to develop textile materials, lignin is advantageous because it is a co-product of wood industry and not a resource which needs a specific production. Furthermore, its interesting chemical structure leads to improve different functional properties such as the fire behavior (indeed this additive can be used as carbon source in flame retardant intumescent system) or the UV resistance of polymers. However, on the basis of our knowledge no studies have been actually published concerning the lignin introduction as filler in textiles structures to confer them functional properties. Therefore, it should be interesting to introduce lignin at different level of textile structure: into the fiber during the spinning process (melt or solvent) or on the surface by functionalization treatment (coating, padding, layer by layer, etc.). But extensive cross-linking and strong intermolecular interactions of lignin constrain the utilization of polymeric lignin in solid material systems. This explains the weak development of fibre with lignin by melt spinning process, although this process is more sustainable than wet spinning process which is currently used with lignin (use of dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO)).
The research program targets the development of multifunctional fully biobased textile structures by particularly using wood waste. To reach this objective, a multi-step strategy will be developed. In a first step, physico-chemical parameters and methods of incorporation of lignin for conventional synthetic fibers will be studied and optimized. Then, the functional qualities (fire behavior, barrier effect, etc) of the textiles structures produced during the project will be characterized. In addition, the functional proprieties brought by raw lignin may be improved by adding synergistic agents into the formulations (for example, use of bio-based acidic sources to develop intumescent system able to improve the fire resistance of textile). The second stage of the project is to develop a new generation of sustainable structures (100% biosourced) for textile markets. The main technology breakthrough is to use and combine different bio-sourced components actually used in other industry such as in plastic industry in order to develop textile solutions (in fiber or coating form). Because of the connection of this project with the textile sector, it will be necessary to evaluate the perceived quality of these new textile solutions.
As new bio-based fiber, dyeing property is also important. Different dyes will be applied onto the new fiber and investigated its dye up-take and color fastness. And the apparel properties including mechanical and comfort should be investigated to explore the practical applications in the area of textile and apparel consumption.
Research mobility period planning :
Development of functional textiles based on the introduction of wood waste by spinning process firstly in conventional synthetic fibers then in fully bio-based fibers. Implementation of functional proprieties brought by raw lignin (fire resistance, light stability)
Characterization of the functional qualities (fire behavior, barrier effect, etc) of the textiles structures produced. Optimization of functional properties by various processes or addition of synergist agents
Measurement of the performances of biobased textile materials. Evaluation and comparison of the perceived quality of these new textiles. Investigation the mass production processes of the developed multifunctional biobased textile materials. Investigation of dyeing properties and apparel properties of the new bio-based fabric.
Co-supervisor’s presentation :
Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically with following notions : Polymer, Functionalization of textile materials, Fire resistance, Photostability of polymers, Textile materials and processes, Sensorial evaluation
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) :
ENSAIT - 21,5 ECTS
POLITO - 16 ECTS
SOOCHOW - 17,5 ECTS (eq.)
| Project SMDTex-2015-2 |
|---|
Concerned Theme: 2
Description :
Tags fastened to a product play an important role in information flow from a manufacturer to consumers. Tags are probably the first entity that a consumer looks for in order to conceive more information about the product. For instance, consumers interpret authenticity of products by analyzing the associated tag which could be in the form of a hologram, logo or any other special ink or related signature. Similarly, the product standard specifications are also mentioned using which consumers decide the appropriateness of the product. In the past few years, on consumers’ demand, information stacking on tags has been increased in various prospective such as product’s environmental impact associated with carbon footprint and the social impact associated with the labor practices during production. In the world of globalization, manufacturers tend to vend all around the world and thereby creating a competitive marketplace to other local and global opponents. For tracking products in the worldwide complex supply chains, manufacturers use digital tracking tags, for instance, RFIDs and barcodes, so that every product can be precisely tracked even in a complex supply chain. Unfortunately, these externally attached tags are always associated with the possibilities of detaching, resulting in missing product in the supply chain and therefore delaying the delivery. On the backyard of the highly competitive markets, counterfeit, one of the profitable businesses has enormously increased, therefore affecting the world’s economy and customers’ trust in original goods. The best way to combat against counterfeit would be a methodology using which manufacturer could verify and claim if the product is original. Therefore, new demands enforcing the manufacturers to revisit and reshape these tags into a single, compact, reliable, irreproducible and integrated tags to the products in order to combat all the associated issues.
Also another issue concerns the end-life recycling/reuse of textiles and clothing. Sustainability issues have led to a rise of the circular economy concept in textile and fashion value chains. Textiles and apparel are increasingly recycled for material recovery or are up cycled in various ways (including redesigning prospects). However, there are various deficiencies still associated with the re: value chain. For example, material recycling is difficult unless a proper sorting of the ‘thrown-away’ item is done to identify its material/fiber composition (natural fibers cannot be recycled with polyester). The externally attached tags may wear and tear over time hence requiring expensive chemical or physical analyses for detection making the process less lucrative. Smart tags embedded in garments can ideally carry information that could help during effective sorting and re: valuation processes. This can also help in defining new sorting parameters or stock keeping units (SKUs) for re: designable items (i.e. which decade it is from etc.). This can be beneficial to improve the performance of the circular value chain. Smart tags can carry various product and material information that could help not only in the cradle-to-cradle designing but also in evaluating the lifecycle footprints more transparently.
Moreover, in the forward value chain a methodology is also needed to be developed in order to claim the authenticity of the product by the manufacturer at consumer’s level. Therefore a solution for identity of fabric is needed to propose which is cost effective, easy to manufacture, manage, possess unique identity, easy to read, difficult for unauthorized replicate, can be embedded in fabrics, sustain identity in various harsh conditions during use and do not affect the comfort and look of fabric. In order to address the above mentioned problems with reduced complexity of manufacturing processes, we expect to introduce a printed tag, wherein identification information is coded in terms of various optical and controllable characteristics. The full use of codes with unique geometric shapes and with different chemical formulations generated over time, will create many combinations to represent a range of large quantities. In this situation, the product can be represented by a unique identification code. The tracking of products will be based on the incorporation of markers into a printing formulation. Different formulations will be explored to find the best effects printed in terms of durability and reliability. The chemical nature of the markers included in the formulation of printing will condition the choice of tool to use for the decoding. The printing formulation will be optimized so as to be sustainable over time and washing. So, an ageing study, in relation to conditions of use, will give information on the printing formulation, more quickly, by identifying the factors most affecting the ageing of such materials.
Research mobility period planning :
Design of a pattern which mixes textile data specifications and time series. Recognition system for decoding procedure based on image analysis techniques. Development of different printing formulation, printing process, ageing study, characterization of the properties, optimization of formulation for good adhesion on the textile and good durability.
Implementation of the smart tag embedded garments in both forward and re: value chains. Identify and evaluate the ‘degrees of smartness’ of tags, associated process parameters and value chain performance improvement parameters (both operational and financial) and their effects.
Apply the research results obtained at ENSAIT and Boras into Chinese textile and apparel industries. The digital tracking tag system will be validated in the aspects of production information sorting, material recycling, stock keeping units and rapid carbon footprint recording, evaluation of producers’ and consumers’ reaction on the proposed tracking system
Co-supervisors:
Required competences for the doctorate candidate : MSc typically in polymer engineering, physico-chemical characterization, rheology, adhesion, information technologies
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) :
University of Borås:
ENSAIT :
Soochow :
| Project SMDTex-2015-3 |
|---|
Concerned Theme: 3
Description :
The global market of textile and apparel is one of the main competition fields of branded products. In such context, it is very important to have a deep understanding on the expectation and perception of the consumer for the branded products.
In the same time, the ethical issues linked with the fashion industry increasingly draw the interest among consumers, retailers, designers and manufacturers. The relationship between knowledge and support has been proved to be the most important aspect of developing sustainable businesses.
Ethical fashion is defined as fashion clothing that is produced under fair trade principles in sweatshop-free labor conditions, with efforts made to reduce the environmental harmfulness of the process (Joergens, 2006). Companies often consider the following major dimensions of ethical fashion: choosing environmentally sustainable products and employing sourcing and production methods compliant with the regulation of fair trade (Joergens, 2006). Such fashion has become a means by which fashion companies fulfil their social and environmental responsibilities and match the increasing consumer desire for sustainability (Hawken, 1993). However, the expectation and perception of ethical fashion products are difficult to evaluate amongst the different factors impacting the purchase behaviour such as the brand previously mentioned, but also the price and the style of the product.
In such context, a widely investigation should be carried in European countries and China to collect information on branded products (ethical and not), purchase behaviours, expectation and perception of consumers. Then, the future research should explore and identify the impacts of ethical fashion/brand/style/price on consumer behaviour. The quantification of these impacts is crucial since it could lead to the estimation of expected profits for companies and thus ensure the sustainability of the system.
Research mobility period planning :
Analysis of the current situation of consumer markets and consumer groups of branded textile and clothing products in European countries and China. Collect the information on branded and ethical fashion products, purchase behaviours, expectation and perception of consumers. Identify the factors that might influence the consumer’s purchase decisions. Set up the expectation value space and perception space on the basis of consumer viewpoints.
Analysis all the factors in both spaces. Quantify the real “ethical” value of products with LCA tools, and perception by the consumer. Establish a multi criteria model to describe the relations among Customer Expectation Values (CEV), Personal Values (PVS), Buying Behaviour (BB), Customer Motivation (CM) to quantify the influences of the previously identified factors in expectation and perception spaces.
Compare the difference of customer expectation value and perception values in different factors and fine the gap between the values of branded textile and clothing product provided and the values of average customer expectation, as well as the gap between values of customer expectation and the value they perceived. Give out suggestions for branded textile and clothing products to improve the competitive advantages on the basis of case studies
Co-supervisors:
Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
Fashion design and marketing, computer modelling, data analysis, LCA.
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) : (55 ECTS) :
| Project SMDTex-2015-41 |
|---|
Concerned Theme: 4
Description :
Cosmeto-textiles are new products merging cosmetics and textiles through the process of micro-encapsulation. The textiles hold on their surface solid microcapsules, each encapsulating a specific amount of cosmetic substance meant to be released on the human body. Cosmeto-textiles currently offered on the market are mainly moisturizing, perfumed, cellulite reducing or body slimming. The release pattern of the microcapsules on cosmeto-textiles can be activated by impact, most likely friction or pressure between the body and fabric, or by simple contact with human fluids, breaking the capsules and releasing the cosmetic properties. The release pattern and kinetic of cosmeto-textile can be studied through the in-vitro release with Franz diffusion cells, available at Polito. They allow to analyze the diffusion of the active principles through a synthetic or organic membrane in a selected receiving media. The membrane should provide an inert holding surface for the test formulation, so as no interaction can be present between the membrane and the formulation.
Microcapsules can be made from various polymers, but microcapsules from natural biodegradable polymers such as chitosan, gelatin, albumin, and alginate are receiving considerable attention because of their biocompatibility and good release properties. Chitosan is found as an effective wall material of microcapsules in biomedical fields due to its ability to reside at the target sites within human body for prolonged time with controlled release properties. Chitosan has advantages over other polysaccharides due to its non-toxicity and bio-degradability as it is broken down in the human body to harmless products (amino sugars) that can be easily absorbed. This natural biodegradable polycationic compound is obtained from chitin by alkaline deacetylation, and it shows good solubility in dilute aqueous acid solution because of proto nation of amine groups of glucosamine monomers. The microcapsules formed with CS by emulsification, precipitation, and spraying methods show single or multilayermembrane structure depending on micro encapsulation method. Chitosan can be cross-linked to various degrees to modulate drug diffusion in their matrix and hence to achieve a sustained release of active substance. In this project at Gemtex, we intend to develop a variety of technologies to achieve effective, finishing in different textile substrates. The first step of this study is dedicated to the design of chitosan particles based on ionic cross-linking methods, oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions and chemical crosslinking, coacervation, and precipitation methods, previously to the incorporation of these particles onto textile fabrics to determine the influence of the encapsulation process on the controlled release properties.
At Polito, the work will deal with the kinetic release study of the active principles included into polymeric microcapsules, bonded on textiles (prepared at ENSAIT). The release study will be focused on the comparison of the different process parameters employed both in microcapsules and cosmeto-textiles preparation, such as the drug-to-polymer ratio, the size of the microcapsules, the influence of the type of fibers and fabrics structures and binders on the active principles release. Simple models to describe the controlled transdermal release will be considered to understand the governing phenomena of the transdermal release.
Research mobility period planning :
Formulations of encapsulation processes in regard to the functional properties of particles. Design of the particles for a textile application in function of the expected release properties
Release studies of the active principles included into the microcapsule, through Franz diffusion cell and hplc chromatography. Kinetic modeling of the active principles release from the fabrics.
(Provide sericin as the inner fillings of microcapsule.) Select two formulation of different functional properties (comfortable or others, depends on the research in Ensait) to apply onto silk fabric and wool fabric . Study the technological conditions, measure the performances of treated textile materials. .
Co-supervisors:
Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in textile engineering, polymer engineering, physical chemistry or rheology.
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) :
ENSAIT:
POLITECNICO di Torino :
Soochow :
| Project SMDTex-2014-42 |
|---|
Concerned Theme: 4
Description :
The research in this project will focus on sustainable development of functional and smart textile materials using advanced strategies and emerging technologies to immobilize enzymes on conductive textiles. Such functional or smart textile materials find their applications in a.o.sensoric textiles, reuse of immobilized enzymes in bioprocesses or soil remediation.
Research mobility period planning :
In the 1st research mobility period, focus will be on the selection functionalities, enzymes and of conductive filaments. Enzyme immobilisation on conductive woven fabrics will be made using eco technologies such as atmospheric air plasma or cold remote plasma. Assessment of enzyme activity will be conducted using conductivity measurements while surface characterisation methods will be used to characterise surface treatments.
The focus will be on development of functional or smart textiles based using digital inkjet and 3D print technology. Digital inkjet technology as well as 3D printing allow the deposition of small quantities of functional inks containing or polymers e.g. conductive materials, functional molecules, catalysts and biocatalysts at a precise location and a specific pattern on a fabric and if required even at the same location. Inkjet technology as well as 3D printing enables cost-effective for deposition of conductive inks or conductive polymers as well as enzymes printing or incorporation of smart fibres. Important topics will be assessment of the functionality, surface properties, surface analysis, adhesion.
The 3rd research mobility period will focus on immobilized enzyme selected from using electrospinning technique to blend conductive polymer, solvent and enzyme, to study the electrospinning technological conditions. Another immobilizing method is to coat or graft enzyme onto conductive fiber or film acquired from electrospinning. And compared the enzyme activity of different immobilizing methods and other characterization.
Co-supervisors:
Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in textile engineering, polymer engineering, physical chemistry or rheology.
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) : :
- French Culture 2 ECTS
- Characterization of advanced materials 2.5 ECTS
- Innovation in technical textiles 4 ECTS
- Production & performances of technical textiles 3.5 ECTS
- Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) (new lecture in 2014)
- Information seeking for PhD students 2.5 ECTS
- Theory of science 7.5 ECTS
- Academic writing 5 ECTS
- Research ethics 2.5 ECTS
- Applied statistical design of experiments 7.5 ECTS
- Quantitative methods 7.5 ECTS
- Advanced textile materials (20h) 3.5 (eq.)
- Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (20h) 3.5 (eq.)
- Advance clothing manufacture system (20h) 3.5 (eq.)
- Colour measurement and control for textile (20h) 3.5 (eq.)
- Eco-dyeing and finishing technology (20h) 3.5 (eq.)
| Project SMDTex-2015-5 |
|---|
Concerned Theme: 5
Description :
Research in functional and smart textiles often focuses on technological and scientific challenges, or on the interaction with the wearer in a technological sense, but to a smaller extend on interaction with the wearer in terms of tactile/sensory properties. This will be the topic of this project.
Smart and functional textiles will be collected as well as produced using different state-of-the-art technologies such as digital inkjet, 3D print technology, printing or incorporation of smart fibers. Research in smart textiles not only focuses on functional technology, but also on the performance of the fabric in end uses. The contact mechanics of fabric surface with skin is also studied for the quality inspection and wearability evaluation. The objective data of fabric surface will be collected by VHX patterns microscope surface hairiness system and KES surface friction and roughness measurement system. A contact mechanics model will also be established to relate the features of smart fabric surface with human skin contact perceptions. The human perception will be acquired by sensory evaluation. The objective properties and human perception will discussed. The quality of smart textiles can be evaluated on the basis of both objective measurement results and subjective skin contact perception. For the produced variants of smart fabrics (in extension, for usual fabrics) an investigation on the psycho-sensorial comfort will be conducted, using subjective methods (the experts’ method). The result of this investigation will be a comprehensive list of descriptors for each sensation.
In parallel, it will be design the conceptual model and the laboratory prototype of an electro-mechanical system for generation of sensations. The same group of experts will be tested for the calibration of the device. The output of this research will be a list of data pairs: descriptor – electrical signal.
The data will be used for modeling by numerical methods of the fabric – human skin contact and perception.
The relations of the smart textile design factors on the fabric surface and skin contact perception will be investigated. The different combinations of design factors can be provided on the basis of the contact mechanics of smart textile fabric and human skin in order to obtain the best quality and wearability products.
The results of this research is expected to develop high quality smart textiles used in apparel sector which is compatable and comfortable with human skin.
Research mobility period planning :
Development and collection of function al or smart textiles based on digital inkjet, 3D print technology, printing or incorporation of smart fibres. Important topics will be assessment surface properties, surface analysis, adhesion.
Analysis and modeling of mechanical properties of the functional and smart textiles i.e. assessment of (micro-)mechanical properties, stress analysis, sensorial investigations.
(1) Investigate the objective properties and human perception of different smart textiles.
(2) Compare the results of quality inspection and evaluation for the different smart textiles.
(3) Analysis the relation of design factors with the results of quality inspection and evaluation.
(4) Provide the different combinations of design factors on the requirement of end uses.
Co-supervisors:
Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in textile engineering, polymer engineering, physical chemistry.
Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) : :
- Information seeking for PhD students 2.5 ECTS
- Theory of science 7.5 ECTS
- Academic writing 5 ECTS
- Research ethics 2.5 ECTS
- Applied statistical design of experiments 7.5 ECTS
- Quantitative methods 7.5 ECTS
- Comfort and Protection 3 ECTS
- Modeling and simulation 7 ECTS
- Advanced textile materials (4 ECTS)
- Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (4 ECTS)
The call for PhD candidates for 2013 is closed.
The name of the 8 accepted fellowships for Edition 2013 are :
Project n° SMDTex-2014-1
Project n° SMDTex-2014-2
Project n° SMDTex-2014-3
Project n° SMDTex-2014-41
Project n° SMDTex-2014-42
Project n° SMDTex-2014-43
Project n° SMDTex-2014-5
Project n° SMDTex-2014-6
Research projects for 2013:
SMDTex – Selected Research Projects for 2013 - Summary :
| Project n° | Project Title | Involved partners | Concerned Theme |
|---|---|---|---|
| SMDTex-2013-01 | Integrated approach to evaluate the sustainability of textile processes | Technical University of Iasi, Politecnico di Torino, Soochow University | Theme 1 |
| SMDTex-2013-02 | Digital tools for developing customised co-design platform with integration of comfort and fashion | University of Boras ENSAIT Soochow University | Theme 6 |
| SMDTex-2013-03 | Eco-design innovative methods for fabric finishing | University of Boras ENSAIT Soochow University | Theme 4 |
| SMDTex-2013-04 | Fast fashion – forecast and sustainable fashion supply chain development | University of Boras ENSAIT Soochow University | Theme 2 |
| SMDTex-2013-05 | A new DNA agent for textile: study of textile quality tracking system and product data management | ENSAIT University of Boras Soochow University | Themes 2 and 5 |
| SMDTex-2013-06 | Development of new protein or tissue fibres Technical | University of Iasi Politecnico di Torino Soochow University | Theme 4 |
| SMDTex-2013-07 | Thermal comfort study for garments: characterisation and human perception | Politecnico di Torino Technical University of Iasi Soochow University | Theme 6 |
| SMDTex-2013-08 | LCA and eco-design of textile products | ENSAIT Politecnico di Torino Soochow University | Theme 1 |
Application procedure
1) Select one research project according to your scientific competences and interests.
2) Download the CV template (MS-Word format), fill it with your complete data, and convert it into a PDF file.
Download the CV Model : cv_model.doc
3) Write a motivation letter (one or two pages) showing why you are interested in the selected project.
4) Prepare the following support documents in PDF format:
5) Upload the CV, the motivation letter and the support documents (all in PDF format).
Use this link to upload your files
Timetable for PhD student recruitment:
