Call for PhD Candidates for 2017


SMDTex – Selected Research Projects for 2017 - Summary :


Project SMDTex-2017-1

  • Title : LCA and Eco-design in the field of Chemicals Removal from Textile Waste for Textile Recycling
  • Involved Partners : ENSAIT, Technical University of Iasi, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 1


Project SMDTex-2017-2

  • Title : Design approaches through innovation management for remanufacturing in textiles and fashion
  • Involved Partners : University of Boras, Technical University of Iasi, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 2


Project SMDTex-2017-3

  • Title : Development of personalized e-shopping services for sustainable textile consumption by mining fashion big data
  • Involved Partners : ENSAIT, University of Boras, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 3


Project SMDTEX-2017-41

  • Title : Novel smart textiles via 3D Printing
  • Involved Partners : University of Boras, ENSAIT, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 4


Project SMDTex-2017-42

  • Title : Biomimetic textiles for pollutant degradation (in air, water or soil) by immobilization of robust or extremozymes
  • Involved Partners : ENSAIT, University of Boras, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 4


Project SMDTex-2017-43

  • Title : Assessment of thermal comfort of FIR functionalized garments
  • Involved Partners : ENSAIT, University of Boras, ENSAIT, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 4


Project SMDTex-2017-6

  • Title : Adaptive morphotype process for optimal ergonomic fit and thermal comfort modelling of garments for persons with spinal disabilities
  • Involved Partners : ENSAIT, Politecnico di Torino, Soochow University
  • Concerned Theme : 6






SMDTex – proposed Research Project for 2016 - details :



Project SMDTex-2017-1

Project SMDTex-2017-1 : LCA and Eco-design in the field of Chemicals Removal from Textile Waste for Textile Recycling

Concerned Theme: 1

Description :
Recycling of textile materials is a resource efficient strategy to develop new products by reducing the use of raw materials and virgin sources. There are different ways for recycling textiles, depending on the quality of the fabric. However, some old garments cannot be recycled because of the presence of chemicals. They have been introduced either during textile manufacturing, finishing or coating processes, or at the use phase, as dirt or soil. Removing of chemical additives in an eco-friendly way would add value to textile recycling, and would generate upgraded quality of recycled textile. The aim of the PhD work will be to find the best way of removing chemicals for textile recycling applications, with a minimal environmental impact evaluated by LCA. The Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is a tool for the systematic evaluation of the environmental aspects of a product or service system through all stages of its life cycle.



Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017 – February 2019: ENSAIT

Literature survey on chemicals issues for recycling of PET and Cotton textiles: Recycling process and Chemical additives in wasted garments. Bibliographic research on the main removal processes associated with each kind of chemicals. LCA of garment life cycle scenarios with focus on the chemical removal process before recycling. Laboratory experiments on representative fabrics. LCA on the chemical process and optimization.

  • March 2019 – August 2020: “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iasi (TUIASI)

Conceiving and designing suitable unit operations for removing chemicals. Optimization taking into account environment, quality and technical feasibility. This experimental research will be made on representative fabrics and Transposed to “real” wasted garments at the end.

  • September 2019 – August 2020: Soochow University.



Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Anne Perwuelz (Roubaix, France) is a full-time Professor at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, Roubaix, France. Her main research interests concerns physicochemical aspects in polymer engineering and in surface treatment and analysis. Environmental aspects of textile treatment has always been one of her main application, and she is now also involved in life cycle analysis of textile product.
  • N. Behary-Massika (Roubaix, France) is associated Professor at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, Roubaix, France. Her main research interests concerns Bio-based functionalization of textiles.
  • Carmen Loghin (Iasi, Romania) is a full Professor at the Department of Engineering of Knitting and Clothing, Faculty of Textile-Leather and Industrial Management of “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iaşi, Romania. She is PhD supervisor in Industrial Engineering, with a number of 8 PhD students under her scientific coordination. The main research and consultancy themes are: protective equipments for hostile environments, manufacturing process design, workplaces design and optimisation, production data management, work methods design and optimisation.
  • Stelian Sergiu Maier (Iasi, Romania) is an Associate Professor at the Department of Textile and Leather Chemical Engineering, of ”Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iași, Romania. He has 26 years of experience in the chemical processing of textile and leather raw materials, and in the recovery and recycling of the resulted by-products.
  • Guoqiang Chen (Soochow, China) is a professor in Textile Dyeing and Finishing at the school of Textile and apparel Engineering at Soochow University and is the head of school. He is specialised in textile dyeing and finishing technology. He has published more than 40 papers in key textile journals in the last 5 years and supervised 10 PhD students. In addition, he has conducted one national research project (Eco-finishing) and a number of provincial research projects in the area of advanced textile dyeing and finishing technology.
  • Guan Jinping (Soochow, China) is associate professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. Her research interest is in functional modification of textiles. She was involved in several nationally and industrially funded projects.


Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc in Textile Engineering, or Materials Science. Knowledge of basic chemistry, mathematics, modelling and polymer physical-chemistry. The ability to independently work in the lab.

Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) : : ENSAIT :

  • French culture 2 ECTS
  • Characterization of advanced materials 2.5 ECTS
  • Innovation in technical textiles 4 ECTS
  • Production & performance of technical textiles 3.5 ECTS
  • Sustainable development for industrial products and processes CSR : 4 ECTS

TUIASI

  • Heat and Mass Transfer Unit Operations in Textiles 4 ECTS
  • Chemical Auxiliaries for Textiles Processing 4 ECTS
  • Pollution Prevention and Control in Textile Chemical Processing 4 ECTS
  • Life Cycle Assessment in Textiles 3 ECTS
  • Management of Textile Products Life Cycle 3 ECTS

Soochow University

  • Chinese culture 3ECTS
  • Chinese languages 3 ECTS
  • Advanced textile materials 3.5 ECTS
  • Eco-dyeing and finishing technology 3.5ECTS
  • Industry communication 2 ECTS
  • Advance clothing manufacture system 3.5 ECTS
  • Silk culture and technology 3.5 ECTS




Project SMDTex-2017-2

Project SMDTex-2017-2 : Design approaches through innovation management for remanufacturing in textiles and fashion

Concerned Theme: 2

Description :
Nowadays, developing sustainable approaches to manufacture became a critical global concern. Key aspects to be analysed according to this goal include approaching and practicing design for environment (DfE), in line also with the improvement of remanufacturing efficiency and effectiveness (REE). In addition, the concept of ‘design for remanufacture’ (DfRem) originates from the understanding that decisions made during the design process could have a considerable effect upon the REE.
Remanufacturing in the global fashion industry is a new and emerging phenomenon which aims at industrially remaking used clothes through various redesign stages so that they at least equals the newly manufactured ones in terms of quality. However in the fashion industry, remanufacturing is still at its infancy due to numerous challenges related to repeatability, unpredictability, lacks of standards, retailing, technology hurdles, etc., hence is predominantly craft-based in nature.
In this context, this PhD project should explore the key (operational and technical) requirements of fashion remanufacturing supply chains making a decisive contribution in organizing both product redesign and reverse logistics processes, such as disassembly, sorting, refurbishment and reassembly. In addition, the project should also focus both on the technical factors relating to DfRem – physical product properties and characteristics – and to determine and explain the operational factors that affect the integration of DfRem into a company's design process. In the central phases of the product development process, the study could include the ways the design team could focus on how to design the product.
DfRem being an integral part of DfE, the project should also consider the overall purpose of environmentally conscious design aimed at reducing the total environmental impact during a product life cycle. In the frame an information system of innovation management will be an important part for DfRem in order to cooperate (among designers, engineers and managers) with a common understanding of processes and goals.



Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017 – February 2019: University of Borås, Sweden

Specific tasks in the 1st research mobility at Borås will include: a critical investigation of the state-of-art of both DfRem and remanufacturing supply chains – in context to fashion and apparel – in terms of basic design and construction principles and processes including reverse logistics and product development. Decisive factors and value streams for designing a competitive fashion remanufacturing supply chain will be identified. The key aspects of product, process and supply chain design will be explored in order to understand how they would affect the resources, capabilities and their deployment. In addition, aspects of process repeatability, costs and business scalability potential will also be identified.

  • March 2019 – August 2020: TU Iasi, Romania

Specific tasks in the 2nd research mobility at Iasi will include: development of specific product design strategies and tools, databases or knowledge-based systems, to assure effective decisions that would facilitate the integration of environmental considerations in product design, with DfRem in mind. The activities could introduce new parameters to enable the development of enhanced DfRem guidelines, for example based on life cycle thinking.

  • September 2020 – August 2021: Soochow University.

Specific tasks in the 3rd research mobility at Soochow will include: training and testing the LCA model developed for DfRem, using real and/or simulated data. Quantitative calculations to optimize the design and remanufacturing processes in order to lower the cost and enhance the eco-friendliness will be conducted to identify industrially viable strategies aimed at both economic and environmental sustainability parameters. The process can be viewed as an evolutionary integration of organization, technology and market by iterating series of activities: search, select, implement and capture. Suitable tool for innovation management, such as brainstorming, virtual prototyping, PLM, TRIZ, Phase–gate model, etc. can be selectively tried.

Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Dr. Rudrajeet Pal (University of Borås) is Assistant Professor in Textile Value Chain Management at Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden. He holds Ph.D. from Tampere University of Technology, Finland on resilience of firms in economic crisis. His current research areas include sustainable value chain and business, with focus towards reshoring and resilience, reverse value chains, and digital fashion. Dr. Pal co-supervises 4 PhD students.
  • Dr. Jonas Larsson (University of Borås) is Assistant Professor in Textile Value Chain Management at Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden. In his Ph.D. in Textile Management he explored new logistics and production solutions for customized knitwear value chains. His research focuses on sustainability and mass customization, including digital fashion and sustainability measurement. He also works internationally through Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
  • Prof. Antonella Curteza (TU Iasi) is a Full professor in the Department of Knitting and Clothing Engineering at the Faculty of Textile- Leather and Industrial Management of the “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iasi, Romania. Her research and teaching experience is in the fields of design, clothing comfort and functions, smart and functional textile products, biomimetics, electrospining. Prof. Curteza is a PhD supervisor in the fields of Industrial Engineering with 8 PhDs under her co-ordination. She acts as referee for Textile Research Journal and Journal of Industrial Textiles.
  • Prof. Yan Chen (ENSAIT, France) PhD and Associate Professor in ENSAIT. He is specialised in textile supply chain management and mass customisation for textiles and participated in Camille 3D Senso ‘Creation of a customised virtual fitting rooms for garments”, a research project funded by the French national FUI Program.
  • Prof. Yan Chen (Soochow University) is currently a Professor. Her research interests include sensory evaluation of textile, production management, and sustainable textile supply chain. She received the Ph.D. degree in Textile Engineering from the Soochow University, China, in 2002. From 1987 to 1988, she was a Visiting Fellow at the University of Leeds, UK. She was an Advanced Visiting Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK, in 2003.
  • Dr. Lichuan Wang (Soochow University) has been a Postdoctoral Fellow and Lecturer, where he researched computerized design of industrial fashion products and sustainable apparel engineering. He received the Ph.D. degree in automation and industrial information engineering from the University of Lille 1, Villeneuve- d’Ascq, France, in 2012.


Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
Master’s degree in Industrial Engineering or Industrial Economics or Textile Engineering and Management or similar subject with understanding of role of product development processes in such contexts. Proficiency in operational research tools and methods, life cycle analysis are highly recommended.

Proposed teaching program :
Borås: Supply Chain Management Theories for practice in textile and fashion (7.5 cr), Theory of Science (7.5 cr), Research Methods (7.5 cr), Lifecycle analysis (7.5 cr), Research Ethics, Academic Writing, …
TUIasi: Sustainable development value-based entrepreneurship (10 cr), Brand management and culture (10 cr), …
Soochow: Advanced clothing manufacture system (3.5 cr), Innovation Management (5 cr), …




Project SMDTex-2017-3

Project SMDTex-2017-3 : Development of personalized e-shopping services for sustainable textile consumption by mining fashion big data

Concerned Theme: 3

Description :
Although numerous IT-enabled processes exist in the textile/fashion industry, these still lack an integrated knowledge-based digital technology platform to link together consumers, retailors, marketers, designers, as well as manufacturers. An advanced digital technology platform is urgently needed for developing novel business models to transform the traditional, labour intensive, fashion textile industry into a digitized knowledge-based supply chain. In these new business models, providing difference e-shopping services meeting consumers’ personalized requirements is a key issue to success. By exploiting the past fashion data (sales data, design elements, fashion images, consumer’s and designer’s evaluation, professional knowledge, …), an e-shopper can recommend relevant products to each specific consumer according to his/her profile, identified through online interactions with the shopper, and personalized requirements, in order to reduce returns and increase satisfaction. This doctoral project will focus on developing algorithms and methods for data analytics, acknowledging the specific needs of e-retailers offering fashion products. In addition to standard scenarios related to customer understanding and sales forecasting, the project will target the specific task of reducing the number of returns through consumer knowledge. the student will realize a number of online services as follows. 1. Recommendation: set up the customer profile and product profile, define the relation between these two profiles from the knowledge base, recommend the most relevant products for a specific consumer profile, and update the knowledge base from successful recommendations.

2. Reliability tracking: for each consumer, set up a reliability tracking document by extracting from his/her historic purchasing data, to be used against the fraudulent behavior “wardrobing” i.e., when a customer wears an item for a short period before returning it.

3. Sales forecasting: the forecasting has to deal with some singular constraints of the textile market such as for instance the volatile demand, the strong seasonality of sales, the wide number of items with short life cycle and so on. A more accurate and reliable forecasting model will be proposed by learning from data and simulating the benefits of the supply chain.

4. Clothing style classification: A great number of fashion data deal with images describing design elements, materials, colours, fashion themes and related ambiances. We will first set up a fashion database in order to associate each garment style with related theme and concrete and abstract design elements, then develop a semantic-based search engine for classifying styles into different classes for fashion trend identification and forecasting.


Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017 – February 2019: ENSAIT

Investigate and analyse the techniques of fashion date processing and mining. Understand the context and domain of the study, especially the structure and classification of fashion data. Set up general mathematical models for developing the four previous services.

  • March 2019 – August 2020: University of Borås

Develop the services of recommendation and reliability tracking by performing the related experimental work, implementing the methods and algorithms as software, validating the performance of the developed services by e-retailers and making adjustments by feedback, and establishing a virtuous cycle consisting of problem generation, solution, deployment and evaluation.

  • September 2020 – August 2021: Soochow University.

Develop the services of sales forecasting and clothing style classification. Collecting new fashion data. Investigate the textile and fashion industries of different types in China. Apply the models in practice. Evaluate the model and provide constrains in application.

Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Xianyi Zeng ENSAIT, France) is a Professor in computer modelling and data analysis at ENSAIT. He is leading a research group specialised in Human-Centred Design. His current research interests include process and product modelling and simulation, human perception characterisation, textile comfort and decision support systems for textile supply chain. He is author or co-author of over 90 papers published in SCI journals and over 100 papers presented at international conferences. He is editor of two scientific collections, published by Springer, and associate editors of two international journals. Prof.Zeng has supervised 30 doctorate students, and more than 30 Master students. He has acted as leader of many research projects funded by European Commission, French government and industrial companies.
  • Sebastien Thomassey (ENSAIT, France) PhD and Associate Professor in ENSAIT. He is specialised in textile supply chain management and mass customisation for textiles and participated in Camille 3D Senso ‘Creation of a customised virtual fitting rooms for garments”, a research project funded by the French national FUI Program.
  • Ulf Johansson (Boras, Sweden): Professor in computer science, with a research focus on data science, in particular machine learning techniques for data mining. Professor Johansson has during the last five years headed several externally funded research projects, some explicitly targeting data analytics for e-tailers.
  • Joel Pettersson PhD in Textile Engineering, is an Assistant professor of University of Borås. He is specialized in knitting technology and textile supply chain management with a focus on knitwear. His research interests include knitted fabric technology, supply chain management, mass customization and fashion logistics.
  • Jenny Balkow (Boras, Sweden): PhD in Business administration, researcher in textile Management at the Swedish School of Textiles, Borås. Current research focuses on changing consumption patterns in the digitalized economy and consumer perception on smart data in association with SIIR (Swedish Institute for Innovative Retailing).
  • Yan CHEN (Soochow, China) is Professor in Clothing Design and Engineering at Soochow University. She is specialised in textile and garment design, garment manufacture management, sensory evaluation of textile and clothing. She has published more than 20 papers in key textile journals in the last 5 years and supervised 5 PhD students. She has conducted one national research project (silk fabric performance research) and a number of provincial research projects in the area of interactive garment design system, evaluation and prediction of textiles and fashion products using intelligent system.

* Lichuan Wang (SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY, CHINA) has been a Postdoctoral Fellow and Lecturer with Soochow University, where he researched computerized design of industrial fashion products and sustainable apparel engineering. He received the Ph.D. degree in automation and industrial information engineering from the University of Lille 1, Villeneuve-d’Ascq, France, in 2012.

Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc in Computer science, Information technology or a similar subject with a profound interest in retail management, CRM or e-commerce. Documented proficiency in programming, preferably in Python, R or MatLab, is expected. Experience in data mining is recommended.

Proposed teaching program :

Proposed courses	Nb. of ECTS

ENSAIT 21.5 ECTS

Sustainable development for industrial products and processes	4
Economic intelligence and innovation dynamics	10
Data Mining (SI-MAPP 04)	2,5
International management (SI-MANA02)	4


Boras

Ethics	3.5
Science Theory	7.5
Research Methods	7.5


Soochow 17.5 ECTS (eq.)

Advanced textile materials (20h)	3.5 (eq.)
Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (20h)	3.5 (eq.)
Advance clothing manufacture system (20h)	3.5 (eq.)
Chinese Culture(36h)	3 (eq.)
Chinese Studies(36h)	3 (eq.)
Industries Communication(20h)	2 (eq.)



Project SMDTex-2017-41

Project SMDTex-2017-41 : Novel smart textiles via 3D Printing

Concerned Theme: 4

Description :
Materials nowadays become “more intelligent”, containing novel functionalities or sensory components. In the textile area, several functions can be achieved by finishing techniques, i.e. physical and/or chemical modifications of textile surfaces. But the integration of electronic components and sensors still suffers from incompatibilities between soft, flexible, textile and wash durability. The project will emphasize on the development of functional or smart textiles based on the deposition of functional polymers or multiple layers using 3D print technology. The research will focus on the development of 3 tracks (1 sensor, conductive tracks and antenna and on the basic science behind successful production of such materials with 3D printing (elasticity of the functional polymer, influence of the thickness of the base layer related quality parameters on the adhesion, the wash performance, the maintenance…), as well as surface properties, surface analysis. This research work will deliver general knowledge /design rules that can be applied in development of a variety of sensors.


Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017 – February 2019: University of Boras

DDevelopment of functional or smart textiles based on the deposition of functional polymers or blends of functional compounds and polymers using 3D print technology on textile fabrics (PET, PA). Important topics apart from deposition of polymers will be surface properties, surface analysis, adhesion. Characterisation of functionality.

  • March 2019 – August 2020: ENSAIT

Development of the microencapsulation technique, characterization of the functionalized fabrics and comparison between layer-by-layer and microencapsulation techniques. Compounding of functional polymers by incorporation of nanofillers. 3D print technology from nanostructured polymers on textile fabrics (PET, PA). Thermal and rheological properties of nanostructured polymers. Analysis surface properties, surface analysis, adhesion, textile performance and maintenance. Application of LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) tool to evaluate the proposed technologies. Characterisation of functionality. Analysis of the signal coming from the smart textile.

  • September 2020 – August 2021: Soochow University.

Electrospinning of functional polymers on textile fabrics, interaction functional molecules and solvent, textile performance and maintenance, industrialization of production and assembly of smart textiles. Characterisation of functionality.

Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Vincent Nierstrasz (Borås, Sweden) is professor in Textile Materials Engineering at the School of Textiles at the University of Boras since 2011. He was previously appointed at Ghent University in Belgium and University of Twente in the Netherlands. He has specific competence in surface modification and surface functionalization of textile materials. He was involved in several European (FP5, FP6 and FP7), nationally and industrially funded projects.
  • Christine Campagne (ENSAIT, France) received a PhD-degree in Macromolecular and Organic Chemistry from the ‘Universite des Sciences et Technologies de Lille’, in 2001. Since 2010, she worked as professor in the ENSAIT Textile Engineering Institute Roubaix. Her research interests include physico-chemical characterization of polymer surfaces and functionalization of textile surfaces. Since 2004, her research areas cover also the processing of synthetic advanced materials by spinning.
  • Xianyi Zeng (ENSAIT, France) is a Professor in computer modelling and data analysis at ENSAIT. He is leading a research group specialised in Human-Centred Design. His current research interests include process and product modelling and simulation, human perception characterisation, textile comfort and decision support systems for textile supply chain. He is author or co-author of over 90 papers published in SCI journals and over 100 papers presented at international conferences. He is editor of two scientific collections, published by Springer, and associate editors of two international journals. Prof.Zeng has supervised 30 doctorate students, and more than 30 Master students. He has acted as leader of many research projects funded by European Commission, French government and industrial companies.
  • Guan Jinping (Soochow, China) is associate professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. Her research interest is in functional modification of textiles especially flame retardant finishing. She was involved in several nationally and industrially funded projects.


Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in textile engineering, polymer engineering, physical chemistry or rheology.

Proposed teaching program (55 ECTS) :
University of Borås:

  • Information seeking for PhD students 2.5 ECTS
  • Theory of science 7.5 ECTS
  • Academic writing 5 ECTS
  • Research ethics 2.5 ECTS
  • Applied statistical design of experiments 7.5 ECTS
  • Quantitative methods 7.5 ECTS


ENSAIT :

  • French culture 2 ECTS
  • Characterization of advanced materials 2.5 ECTS
  • Innovation in technical textiles 4 ECTS
  • Production & performance of technical textiles 3.5 ECTS
  • Corporate Social Responsibility (1 ECTS)
  • Design of nonwivens (2.5 ECTS)


Soochow :

  • Chinese culture 3 ECTS
  • Chinese languages 3 ECTS
  • Advanced textile materials 3.5 ECTS
  • Eco-dyeing and finishing technology 3.5ECTS
  • Industry communication 2 ECTS
  • Advance clothing manufacture system 3.5 ECTS
  • Silk culture and technology 3.5 ECTS





Project SMDTex-2017-42

Project SMDTex-2017-42 : Biomimetic textiles for pollutant degradation (in air, water or soil) by immobilization of Robust or Extremozymes

Concerned Theme: 4

Description :
Immobilized enzyme on fibrous porous textile structure can provide an efficient tool for pollutant degradation in various environments (soil, air, and water) and can provide an efficient way to depollute air, water and soil by eliminating specific pollutants. However, as enzymes have restricted optimal activity and work in optimal pH and temperature conditions, they are readily inactivated or denatured under various conditions (ex: soil in very cold climates, pH or salinity of water, hot conditions) An extremozyme is an enzyme, often created by extremophiles, that can function under extreme environmental conditions such as very high pH, very low pH, high temperature, high salinity, or other factors, that would otherwise denature typical enzymes. Immobilisation of these extremozymes on textile will offer new catalytic alternatives for pollutant degradation when textiles are used in harsh conditions as geotextiles (ex: cold climates), or as filters for air or water depollution.

The aim of this phD will be to graft pollutant degrading extremozymes on textile fibrous surfaces, for both pollutant capture and degradation in extreme conditions. Ecotechnologies (plasma) and bio-based polymers will be used for enzyme immobilization on textiles. The possible use of the so functionalized textile will be explored for applications such as air filters or as depolluting geotextiles


Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017 – February 2019: ENSAIT

Complete literature work on Robust and extremozymes with the ability of degrading specific pollutants (in air and soil). Selection of one or two enzymes before immobilizing them on textiles. Surface grafting using plasma ecotechnology will be carried to graft the enzymes.

  • March 2019 – August 2020: University of Borås, Sweden

Complete literature work on Robust and extremozymes with the ability of degrading specific pollutants (in air and soil). Selection of one or two enzymes before immobilizing them on textiles. Surface grafting using plasma ecotechnology will be carried to graft the enzymes.

  • September 2020 – August 2021: Soochow University.

Testing the depolluting efficiency of the functionalized textile in extreme conditions.

Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Nemeshwaree Behary-Massika (ENSAIT, France) is associate professor (Dr. HDR) at ENSAIT/GEMTEX (EcoleNationaleSupérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, Roubaix in France) since 2004. She is specialised in surface chemistry and in textile bio-functionalization. She has been involved in several international, European and regional funded projects.
  • Vincent Nierstrasz (Borås, Sweden) is professor in Textile Materials Engineering at the School of Textiles at the University of Boras since 2011. He supervised/co-supervised over 10 PhD-students. He was previously appointed at Ghent University in Belgium and University of Twente in the Netherlands. He has specific competence in surface modification and surface functionalization of textile materials. He was involved in several European (FP5, FP6 and FP7), nationally and industrially funded projects.
  • Guan Jinping (Soochow, China) is associate professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. Her research interest is in functional modification of textiles especially flame retardant finishing. She was involved in several nationally and industrially funded projects.
  • Chen Guoqiang (Soochow, China) is a professor in the College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University. His research interest is in functional modification of textiles and eco process of textile wet process. He was involved in several nationally and industrially funded projects.


Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in Textile engineering, polymer, chemistry.

Proposed teaching program :

ENSAIT:

  • French Culture 2 ECTS
  • Characterization of advanced materials 2.5 ECTS
  • Innovation in technical textiles 4 ECTS
  • Production & performances of technical textiles 3.5 ECTS
  • Sustainable development for industrial products and processes CSR : 4 ECTS

University of Borås:

  • Information seeking for PhD students 2.5 ECTS
  • Theory of science 7.5 ECTS
  • Academic writing 5 ECTS
  • Research ethics 2.5 ECTS
  • Applied statistical design of experiments 7.5 ECTS
  • Quantitative methods 7.5 ECTS

Soochow University:

  • Chinese culture 3 ECTS
  • Chinese languages 3 ECTS
  • Advanced textile materials 3.5 ECTS
  • Eco-dyeing and finishing technology 3.5ECTS
  • Industry communication 2 ECTS
  • Advance clothing manufacture system 3.5 ECTS
  • Silk culture and technology 3.5 ECTS







Project SMDTex-2017-43

Project SMDTex-2017-43 : : Assessment of thermal comfort of FIR functionalized garments

Concerned Theme: 4

Description :
Far infrared ray (FIR) emitting fabrics are claimed to be functional textiles improving health and well-being. FIR textiles are derived from traditional fibres by incorporation of ceramic nanofillers with appropriate electromagnetic absorption end emission properties. The purpose of this project is to analyse the effects of ceramic fillers (powders) added to a textile substrate on the thermal comfort. These additives (i.e. oxyde, sulfate, carbonate, phosphate and silicate derivatives) will be deposited on several textiles structures by finishing processes in order to their far infrared radiation effects, which can offer thermo-regulation properties and improve blood micro-circulation when in contact with the skin. The performances of the developed functional textile structures will be also compared to those obtained from commercial fibers.

Therefore, the project will be focused on the development of light fabrics in order to improve thermal comfort for extreme conditions such as sportswear application. To succeed in, the work plan will be divided in different steps, i.e. (i) selection of a suitable formulation of additives based on far infra-red properties, (ii) manufacture of knitted fabrics with different contexture, (iii) textile functionalization, (iv) determination of thermal and mass transfer properties (clothing isolation, evaporative resistance, radiation properties…), (v) determination and analyses of thermo-physiological responses and subjective sensations of human subjects.

In ENSAIT, the study will be oriented on the thermo-chemical characterization of the ceramic nanofillers, the manufacture of the functional textile fabrics, and the evaluation of thermal performances.

In Politecnico di Torino, the candidate will focus on the assessment of the effects of FIR functionalized garments on human physiology by wear trial tests on a panel of subjects in a controlled environment under controlled physical activity. The candidate will design the proper experimental protocol which include the measure of skin temperatures and humidity, heart rate, oxygen uptake. and will conduct the tests for the functionalized garment and the placebo one with the aim of highlighting the effect of FIR garments on human physiology.

In Soochow University, the concern objective measurement and subjective evaluation of thermal comfort will be arranged to verify the innovated prototypes created at ENSAIT and POLITO. While a complete assessment system will be established on the base of the experimental research in ENSAIT and POLITO. This system will be applied in industry and provide new technologies for the products development of functional garments.


Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017– February 2019: ENSAIT


  • March 2019-September 2020: POLITECNICO DI TORINO


  • September 2020 – August 2021: SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY.



Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Ada Ferri (POLITO) associate professor at the Applied Science and Technology Department of Politecnico di Torino. She has more than ten-year experience in textile technology research and innovation, with scientific interests in textile functionalization, thermo-physiological comfort of apparel and sustainable dyeing processes.

She participated in several national and European projects and collaborates with national and international textile firms in developing industrial research and innovation projects. Since 2010, she holds the chair of High performance textile applications and Thermodynamics for Materials Science at the MSc in Materials Science in Torino.

  • Marco Vanni, Antonello Barresi (to be completed)
  • Fabien Salaün (ENSAIT-GEMTEX), received a MSc in Organic and Macromolecular Chemistry in 2001 and a PhD in Macromolecular Chemistry in 2004. He is Professor in the Chemistry and Materials Sciences. His research interests include in thermal comfort textile, microencapsulation processes and functional coating for textile applications. He is coauthor of more than 30 papers in international refereed scientific journals and of 7 book chapters. He teaches polymer science at the MSc in ENSAIT
  • Christine Campagne (ENSAIT, France) received a PhD-degree in Macromolecular and Organic Chemistry from the ‘Universite des Sciences et Technologies de Lille’, in 2001. Since 2010, she worked as professor in the ENSAIT Textile Engineering Institute Roubaix. Her research interests include physico-chemical characterization of polymer surfaces and functionalization of textile surfaces. Since 2004, her research areas cover also the processing of synthetic advanced materials by spinning.
  • Stéphane Giraud (ENSAIT-GEMTEX), received a Textile MSc degree in ENSAIT in 1999 and a PhD-degree in Macromolecular and Organic Chemistry from the ‘Université des Sciences et Technologies de Lille’, in 2002. Since 2003, he worked as associate professor in the ENSAIT Textile Engineering Institute Roubaix. His research interest include multifunctional textiles (fire resistance properties, drug release, stab resistance) by various processes (knitting, coating, padding, spinning, microencapsulation). He has participated in several national and European projects, for some he was scientific manager. He supervised more 20 master students and co-supervised over 6 PhD students.
  • Yan Chen (Soochow, China) is Professor in Clothing Design and Engineering at Soochow University. She is specialised in textile and garment design, garment manufacture management, sensory evaluation of textile and clothing. She has published more than 20 papers in key textile journals in the last 5 years and supervised 5 PhD students. She has conducted one national research project (silk fabric performance research) and a number of provincial research projects in the area of interactive garment design system, evaluation and prediction of textiles and fashion products using intelligent system.
  • Lichuan Wang (Soochow, China) is a Post-doctor of Industrial Information Technology in Apparel Engineeringat National Engineering Laboratory for Modern Silkin China. He is also working as a lecturer in Soochow University. He obtained his Master in garment engineering from Soochow University, China, in 2009 and then received his Ph.D. degree of Automation and Industrial Information Technology from Université des Sciences et Technologies de Lille, France, in 2012. His main research interests include computerized design of industrial products, mass customization, human-centred design, and PLM system development.

Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in polymer engineering, physical chemistry or rheology. The knowledge of textile science, specially functionalization, thermal comfort will be also appreciated.

Proposed teaching program :
ENSAIT:

  • French Culture (2 ECTS)
  • Characterization of advanced materials (2.5 ECTS)
  • Innovation in technical textiles (4.0 ECTS)
  • Production & performances of technical textiles (3.5 ECTS)
  • Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)


POLITECNICO di Torino:

  • High performance fibres for composites, sportswear and protection (6 ECTS)
  • Short course on entrepreneurship (1 ECTS)
  • Writing scientific papers in English (2 ECTS)
  • Fondamenti di chimica organica, biologia molecolare e microbiologia (12 ECTS)


Soochow :

  • Advanced textile materials (3 ECTS)
  • Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (3.5 ECTS)
  • Advance clothing manufacture system (3.5 ECTS)
  • Colour measurement and control for textile (3.5 ECTS)
  • Eco-dyeing and finishing technology (3.5 ECTS)
  • Chinese Culture(3.0 ECTS)
  • Chinese Studies(3.0 ECTS)






Project SMDTex-2017-6

Project SMDTex-2017-6 : Adaptive morphotype process for optimal ergonomic fit and thermal comfort modelling of garments for persons with spinal disabilities

Concerned Theme: 6

Description :
The project will be aimed at optimizing the design of a piece of garment for people with disabilities in terms of ergonomic and thermal comfort. For people with an atypical morphology of the spinal cord, garment fit can be adapted to the torso actual shape with the aid of new digital 3D technologies that allow garment customization for achieving the best ergonomic comfort. People with disabilities have special needs also in terms of thermal comfort because they spend many hours seated or lying in bed, experiencing limited ventilation normally produced by body movements. In this situation, it is important that garments provide the proper thermal insulation, breathability and moisture transport.
In Ensait, thanks to the collaboration with the medical staff of the hospital of Lilles, the 3D model of the garment will be created taking into account the real spinal deformations of atypical morphologies registered by spinal X-ray pictures (front and back) or 3D EOS.
The final aim will be the development of a 3D adaptive model whose patterns are automatically modified in function of the pathology of the patient and its evolution during the patient's life. In Polito, the project will be focused on modelling heat transfer through one piece of garment by using the Finite Element Method with the final aim of optimizing thermal comfort. The input data of the model derive from fabric characterization tests (air permeability, thermal resistance,…), garment design (pumping effect, presence of openings or sewing), environmental data and physiological metabolic rate. In Soochow University, the objective measurement and subjective evaluation are arranged to verify the models established at ENSAIT and Polito. The models will be apply in practice uses and provide the constrains in application of the models.


Research mobility period planning :

  • September 2017– February 2019: Ensait

Study of methods to scan body and analyse this date by anthropometrical methods. Analyse the process to make parametric mannequins and adapt it for people with physical disabilities. Development of the software which integrate and control the volume evolution of parametric mannequins in the scanned body of consumer.

  • March 2019-September 2020: Polito

Integration of the 3D garment model in a software for FEM modelling of heat balance across the human body. Identification of the boundary conditions and implementation of the bio-heat equation in the CFD software.

  • September 2020 – August 2021: Soochow University..

Assessment of models established at ENSAIT and Polito by both the objective measurement and subjective evaluation. The models will be apply in practice uses to provide the constrains in application of the models.

Co-supervisor’s presentation :

  • Guillaume Tartare PhD and Associate Professor in ENSAIT. He comes from LISIC (computer science laboratory) and INSERM (French institute of health and medical research) in the field of medical signal and image processing. Now his research interests include physiological signal and body shape acquisition and processing, design of intelligent garments and decision support system.
  • Pascal Bruniaux Professor in 3D object modelling and simulation at ENSAIT. His research interests include 3D modeling of human body and garments, design of man/garment interface and textile comfort. The involved projects include mass customization and 3D virtual garment fitting and design process.
  • Ada Ferri (POLITO) Associate professor at the Applied Science and Technology Department of Politecnico di Torino. She has more than ten-year experience in textile technology research and innovation, with scientific interests in textile functionalization, thermo-physiological comfort of apparel and sustainable dyeing processes. She participated in several national and European projects and collaborates with national and international textile firms in developing industrial research and innovation projects. Since 2010, she holds the chair of High performance textile applications and Thermodynamics for Materials Science at the MSc in Materials Science in Torino.
  • Marco Vanni (POLITO) is full professor at Department of Applied Science and Technology of Politecnico di Torino, where he is coordinator of the PhD program in Chemical Engineering and teaches “Physical chemistry of dispersed systems” and “Chemical engineering thermodynamics”. The main subject of his research activity is the study of dispersed systems, with particular focus on fluid dynamic aspects, both at macro and micro scale, mass and heat transfer, surface phenomena. In many cases the research work was based on computational fluid dynamics, integrated by proper modelling of local scale phenomena or surface interactions. As a result of this activity he authored about 150 papers in international journals or conference proceedings. He managed a research unit in past national research projects on dispersed systems and took part to European projects as coordinator of the aspects related to computational simulation. He also supervised a number of applied research projects with industrial companies on wet production of nanoparticles, use of computational fluid dynamics in multiphase reactors, mixing and dispersion of colloidal additives.
  • Antonello Barresi (POLITO) is full professor in Transport phenomena, and coordinator of the Chemical Engineering courses at Politecnico di Torino. His research activity (both experimental and modelling) was carried out on the following topics: modelling of processes and apparatus typical of chemical engineering, using both deterministic and stochastic models; mixing in multiphase systems; investigation and modelling of turbulent reacting flows; synthesis of nanostructured ceramic materials; drying and freeze-drying; dynamics and control of forced unsteady-state reactors; catalytic combustion of waste gases and modelling of heterogeneous catalytic reactors. He contributed to the development of innovative technologies like thermally stabilised catalytic combustors for the destruction of organic chlorinated wastes; forced unsteady state catalytic combustors for the destruction of lean and extra-lean waste gases with reduced energy consumption. Author of more than 250 papers (of which about 160 published on international Journals or books) and more than 100 conference presentations.

* Yan Chen (Soochow University) is Professor in Clothing Design and Engineering at Soochow University. She is specialised in textile and garment design, garment manufacture management, sensory evaluation of textile and clothing. She has published more than 20 papers in key textile journals in the last 5 years and supervised 5 PhD students. She has conducted one national research project (silk fabric performance research) and a number of provincial research projects in the area of interactive garment design system, evaluation and prediction of textiles and fashion products using intelligent system.

* Lichuan Wang (Soochow University) is a Post-doctor of Industrial Information Technology in Apparel Engineeringat National Engineering Laboratory for Modern Silkin China. He is also working as a lecturer in Soochow University. He obtained his Master in garment engineering from Soochow University, China, in 2009 andthen received his Ph.D. degree of Automation and Industrial Information Technology from Université des Sciences et Technologies de Lille, France, in 2012. His main research interests include computerized design of industrial products, mass customization, human-centred design, and PLM system development.

Required competences for the doctorate candidate :
MSc typically in chemical engineering, with skills in software development (Matlab, C,C++,Java…).

Proposed teaching program :

ENSAIT: Garment design knowledge (6 ECTS), 2D/3D garment CAD systems (6 ECTS), imaging processing (6 ECTS).
POLITECNICO di Torino: High performance fibres for composites, sportswear and protection(6 ECTS), short course on entrepreneurship (1 ECTS), Writing scientific papers in English (2 ECTS).
SOOCHOW University: Advanced textile materials (3 ECTS), Sensory Evaluation of textile and clothing (3.5 ECTS), Advance clothing manufacture system (3.5 ECTS), Colour measurement and control for textile (3.5 ECTS), Eco-dyeing and finishing technology (3.5 ECTS), Chinese Culture(3.0 ECTS), Chinese Studies(3.0 ECTS)




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